Healthy trees add value, shade, and beauty to your property. But they do not take care of themselves. A little know-how goes a long way toward keeping your trees safe and strong, and toward catching small problems before they turn into expensive ones.
This guide covers the basics every Twin Cities homeowner should know: why a little planning beats waiting for a storm, how to water and mulch the right way, the basics of pruning, seasonal care, and how to tell when a job is bigger than a weekend project and it is time to call an ISA Certified Arborist.
We believe every homeowner should know how to care for their trees, so this guide is free and there is no email required. And when a job grows bigger than a weekend project, we are just a phone call away for a free estimate.
Download the guide (PDF)Why a little planning beats waiting for a storm
The goal is simple. Move from reacting after something breaks to caring for your trees on purpose. A small problem you find early is safer, easier, and cheaper to fix than a failure you find after a storm.
Walk your property a few times a year and after big storms. Look up. Most serious tree problems give you warning signs long before a branch or a whole tree comes down.
Watering: more important than most people think
Older trees mostly take care of themselves, but young trees in their first two or three years, and mature trees during a drought, need help. The most common mistake is watering a little bit, often. That grows weak, shallow roots.
Instead, water deep and less often. Let a hose trickle slowly at the base, or use a soaker hose, so the water soaks 12 to 18 inches down. In a dry Minnesota summer, one deep soak a week beats a light sprinkle every day. Water out at the edge of the branches, not right against the trunk.
Mulch the right way, and skip the volcano
A ring of mulch holds moisture, evens out the soil temperature, and keeps mowers and trimmers away from the trunk, which is a very common cause of tree damage. Aim for a 2 to 3 inch layer in a wide ring.
Here is the key rule. Keep the mulch a few inches back from the trunk. Piling mulch up against the bark in a cone, the classic mulch volcano, traps water against the trunk, invites rot and pests, and can slowly kill a healthy tree. Think wide and flat, like a doughnut, not a volcano.
Pruning basics, and what not to do
Good pruning builds a stronger tree, removes hazards, and can add years to its life. Focus on dead, diseased, or broken branches, and any limbs that cross and rub. For young trees, a little shaping helps set a strong frame.
Never top a tree, which means cutting big limbs back to stubs. Topping does permanent damage, grows back weak and unsafe, and invites decay. Also avoid taking more than about a quarter of the canopy in one year. When in doubt, prune less, and leave the big cuts to a pro.
When to prune in Minnesota
For most trees, late winter to early spring is the best time, while the tree is dormant. It is not actively growing, the wounds close fast as spring comes, and you can see the structure clearly with the leaves gone.
Timing matters for some trees. Do not prune oaks in spring and early summer because of oak wilt. Late fall through winter is safer. Elms have similar rules for Dutch elm disease. Dead or clearly unsafe limbs, though, can and should come off any time.
Tree health: pests, disease, and stress
Not every bug or leaf spot is a crisis. Some problems are just cosmetic, and others point to real decline. Getting the right diagnosis matters, so do not guess based on an internet photo or your neighbor's tree.
Watch for smaller or yellowing leaves, early leaf drop, thinning at the top, dead branch tips, oozing or odd bark changes, chewed leaves or webbing, and fungus near the roots or trunk. If you see these, have an arborist take a look and give you a straight read on what the tree needs.
Storm prep and what to do after
Before bad weather, check large trees near your house, driveway, and the road. Remove known hanging or broken limbs, look over dead trees and big cracks, and move vehicles away from questionable trees.
After a storm, stay clear of hanging limbs and leaning trees. Treat any downed line as live and call the utility. If it is safe, take photos of the damage before cleanup. Then have damaged trees looked at by a professional.
Understanding tree risk
Risk is more than just a defect. It combines three things: how likely a part is to fail, how likely it is to hit something, and how bad it would be if it did.
A dead limb over an unused corner of the yard is not the same risk as the same limb over a driveway, a deck, or a front door. When you think about which trees to deal with first, start with the ones hanging over the places people and cars actually are.
DIY or call a pro? A simple rule of thumb
Watering, mulching, and light pruning of small, easy-to-reach branches are fine to do yourself. Past that, tree work gets dangerous fast, and a mistake can cost far more than the job would have.
Call an ISA Certified Arborist when a branch is bigger than about 3 inches or above shoulder height, the work is anywhere near power lines, the tree is dead or clearly unsafe, the job would take you up off the ground or a chainsaw overhead, or you just are not sure. A pro brings the training, insurance, and equipment to do it safely, and can tell you honestly whether a tree can be saved or should come down.